Family comes to Praha

Four hours down. Three to six hours to go. Yes, that’s right, we have a three-hour range of time for our arrival to my program’s first destination in our week-long traveling seminar and it’s slowly killing me. Call me crazy but there is quite a difference between a seven-hour bus ride and a 10-hour one. I’m praying for the former. However, now I can get in some much needed blogging.

We have embarked on our program’s week-long traveling seminar which will take us from Krakow, to Brno, Czech Republic, and then on to Vienna, Austria. But the details from this trip will have to be left to my next blog. For now, I must document my past week of bliss (which explains my rather lengthy absence from blogging). Last weekend half of the Anderson family was reunited when my mom and sister, Kristina, traversed from opposite ends of the globe- my mother from Wisconsin, Kristina from China- to meet at the center (me) for a wonderful week of delicious food, wine, sight-seeing, and all-in-all some much needed family time.

I essentially took a little “sabbatical” from my program while they visited, staying at their hotel with them and returning to my flat periodically for clean clothes. Their visit was just what I needed, especially after a crazy few weeks of midterms and presentations. During the last few weeks I was not only preparing for multiple midterms and presentations before their visit, but I was also working ahead, getting all of my schoolwork that was due the week of their visit done ahead of time. I was determined to be entirely focused on them when they arrived- none of this school "stuff" getting in the way. Apparently the promise of seeing your mom and sister, staying in a nice hotel with a pool that also happens to have a plethora of free food and drinks, shopping, and finally being able to try out all of those restaurants that are too expensive on your own, is a great incentive- who knew?! Although I was a borderline hermit for a few weeks, it was so worth it.

Having had a few glorious weeks of premature spring weather, I couldn’t wait for my mom and Kristina to see Prague greening-up under the beautiful sunshine. But after a month of lacking any sort of precipitation as well as a week of consistent 60-degree temps, what did I wake up to on the Friday of my mother’s arrival? Snow, rain, and cold, of course. Welcome to beautiful Praha! --- but not really. Then to make matters worse, as we approached my metro stop with all of my mom’s luggage after I picked her up at the airport, an announcement came on the PA system announcing that my stop was closed (this was all in Czech of course, but considering we zoomed right on by the stop, I think we can safely assume it was closed). We then walked 5 blocks in the snowy-rainy weather, lugging my mom’s luggage over uneven cobblestones until we finally made it to my flat acutely resembling drowned rats. Some would maybe say my mom had a rather rough start to her Prague experience, I however, kept pointing out how now the trip could really only improve. No one wants to start a trip with too high of expectations, right?

I’m happy to say the trip did eventually improve and rather quickly- beginning with Kristina’s arrival on Saturday. Although the weather was still cold and the sun continued to hide, there was no snow or rain in the air- one step at a time, as the saying goes. By Sunday the sun was shining and come Wednesday we were blessed with blue skies and 50-degree weather.

What sights did we see, you may ask? ALL OF THEM. We did it all. Jet-lagged and exhausted, they still managed to fit in all of the major sights. We even managed to do quite a few things that I had yet to do on my own in Prague. Here are a few pics from our time together- unfortunately, I’m lacking in pictures from their visit because my sister is a photo-taking fiend- why bother going through the hassle of getting my camera out when my sister is snapping away already? She took more than 400 pictures half way through the week, so I think documentation of the week is fully covered.  

Watch out Praha, Mama Nene has arrived!

Reunited at last and immediately beginning our sight-seeing in front of the Astronomical Clock in Old Town Square

There happened to be a fair going on in Old Town Square during their visit- delicious food galore!

My first Opera- Don Giovanni.

Kristina intently listening to my mother as she reads the synopsis to Don Giovanni before the performance. Thank goodness for English subtitles.

Drinks on a rooftop at Old Town Square

Imagining her youngest daughter's wedding in the distance at Prague Castle? I think so.

Weather looking much better than it did upon her arrival.....thank you, Mother Nature.

Kristina wandering on Charles Bridge

They struggled a bit on the cobblestones

"Todd"- Found my dad's name on the Lennon wall!

"Go Pack" on the Lennon wall

The view from Petrin Tower. My calves are still in pain from the 400 steps...

Although this week was primarily a much needed visit from family, it was also a very interesting look into another side of Prague for me, specifically the “touristy” side. Staying in Old Town, near Old Town Square, and consequently in walking distance to all of the major sights, we were in the heart of touristic Prague. Despite still being March, tourist season has taken off and Prague will soon become increasingly densely packed (or so I’m told) with tourists of every shape, size, and color.

As my mom, sister, and I would pass over Charles Bridge in the afternoon or walk through the winding alleys of Old Town to dinner, my sister kept commenting, “If it’s like this in March, I can’t even imagine what Prague is like in the summer.” It was unbelievable, the sheer numbers of tour groups was astounding in the cooler weather.

Considering I arrived in Prague in the dead of winter in temperatures near below zero, it is strange for me to see the growing number of tourists. Prague no longer feels like my hidden treasure in Central Europe. Not that I’m criticizing Prague or like it any less, I just see it in a little different light now. Before I arrived in Prague I often heard it described as the next “up and coming” city of Europe and up until last week I still adhered to that statement, but I no longer think “up and coming” applies to Prague. I would say Prague is more accurately described as “here and now." No longer “coming,” Prague is a popular and trendy travel destination with a neighborhood (Old Town) which specifically caters to the tourism industry.

The thing that most stood out to me this past week was the amount of English I heard. Living outside the city center, I typically run up against the language barrier quite frequently- I usually get spoken to in rapid Czech and then I have to awkwardly explain that I don’t understand what they are saying. But while staying in Old Town, I was amazed at how often we were automatically spoken to in English, how many menus were multi-lingual, and how most all prices were also given in Euros. I felt like I was in a whole other Prague. Another contrast to "my" Prague was that there was customer service- as in smiles- in Old Town! While the service was not up to the brown-nosing standards of tip-earning American servers, the occasional smiles and attentiveness threw me a good curve ball. 

It was hard to say goodbye to my family (especially since they make it extremely difficult when they hug me six times each and then watch me as I go down the escalator to catch the metro) but I'm so thankful they were able (and willing) to come for a visit. With a week of traveling Central Europe directly ahead of me as well as two more weekend trips to Barcelona and Budapest in the future, my time abroad seems to be vanishing into thin air with less than seven weeks left- ahhhhh! But now having fully rejuvenated with some family time, I'm ready to take the second half of my adventure at full storm. Hopefully partially on rollerblades. 

Na Shledanou!

Maarja

angsty teens.

While I had a hard time comprehending the subjectivity and ever-changing interpretation of WWII last week, I was exposed to a familiar and rather relieving consistency that appears to cross cultures this week. One thing that is seemingly present and constant from the states to the Czech Republic is… (drum roll please) ---angsty teenagers.

Yes, they are, in fact, everywhere and fortunately not unique to the states. My program provides a service internship opportunity, and wanting to see another side to the Czech culture, I volunteered to teach English at an elementary school. Wednesday was my first day and I was a little surprised to say the least when I went in expecting a school full of 7-year-olds and rather walked into a school full of raging hormones- aka a junior high school. But I was actually rather pleased. I love second graders and their unquestioning adoration for “big kids” but I prefer junior high kids’ snotty attitudes opposed to a 7-year-old's actual running and snotty nose. You get me?

I love their sassiness. I love their attitudes. But most of all I love their awkwardness.

It was amazing to see the similarities between a junior high school in the states and this one in Prague. Despite being in the city center of Prague, mere blocks away from Charles Bridge, I could have been in a junior high school in any one of the states. As I was sitting and waiting near the teachers’ lounge for the English teacher to come and escort me to the classroom, I was lucky enough to be there during passing time and had a parade of youths ranging from pre- to post- pubescence past me. A lanky girl reaching the six-foot mark passed me while not far behind a pack of boys looking like they still ran away from cooties on the playground scurried by, followed by a three-some of “mean” girls dressed in club-wear meant for 20-somethings. The range in stages of adolescence seems to be something that transcends cultural and geographical boundaries.

Even the school itself - the sights, the sounds, and the smells (which is really quite questionable in a junior high school) seemed familiar. The walls were plastered with educational posters while last weeks art projects dangled from the ceiling panels. Incessant chatter filled the hallways (granted it was entirely in Czech, but let’s be honest, chatter sounds like chatter, whether in English, Czech, or squirrel) and as kids ran to their classrooms after the sounding of the warning bell, a teacher scolded in Czech down the hallway that I would guess translated to the universal chide of ”Walk, please!” The aroma of the lunch preparations in the school cafeteria wafted through the five-story school, intermingling with the not-exactly-unpleasant-but-not-quite-good-smelling stench of teenagers who happen to have basketball practice in the mornings (whyyyy?). Other than not understanding a word that was being said around me, I could have been in Grantsburg, WI.

On my first day the English teacher brought me into the classroom and introduced me as the students' new English teacher. I panicked a little bit at this point. I had thought I would simply be a “helper” or “teacher’s assistant” to the actual, educated and qualified teacher. Nope. Apparently not. I’m their teacher on Wednesdays and Thursdays. Eeeek. Good thing I love a good challenge.

And also, good thing I’m a good actress. I was entirely aware that a group of 15-year-olds were eyeing up this “Američanka” so I did my best to hide my terror. They were sniffing for my fear like pit bulls, but I smiled like a crazy and babbled about my American life. Did they understand anything of it? Not quite sure.

But wait Maarja, you might be thinking, you don't speak Czech. This is true. You would think this would make it difficult to teach English. Thankfully, they have basic conversational English down despite only studying English for two years. But I’m almost positive I’m not going to enjoy when my students have side conversations in Czech. How am I supposed to know if they are actually talking about something relevant to the lesson or discussing anything and everything they probably shouldn't be talking about in school/making fun of me? I have made a note to learn all Czech swear and slang words. Ah ha, angsty teens, you won't fool this Američanka!

On Wednesdays we will be reading the book “Matilda” aloud which I’m quite excited for while on Thursdays we will have discussions about specific topics. For instance, last Thursday we discussed health, the human body, illnesses, and health care systems. Try teaching the words gynecologist and psychiatrist to non-native English speakers- it’s not easy. And I don’t think I need to mention the chuckles I heard from the boys when explaining the word “diarrhea.”

Hopefully with the embarrassment of explaining bowel movements behind me, I’m looking forward to my first teaching adventure. Although I have done some classroom work and instruction before as a camp counselor and teaching assistant, teaching English is a whole other endeavor I have yet to experience. I’m sure I’ll eventually get used to the blank stares that I get when I speak too quickly, or use a word they haven’t learned, but I never imagined how hard it would be to teach and explain something that is so natural to me.

But not only am I excited to take on the challenge of teaching English, I’m also looking forward to seeing another side of Czech culture- their education system. And more importantly, I’m excited to talk with my Czech students and learn about Prague from a different angle. Even though getting them to talk my first week was like pulling teeth, I’m determined to break through their hard exteriors and get them to like this Američanka.

Who knows what I’ll learn from this experience, if I’m lucky, I’ll pick up some more Czech while I teach them English. My own English may even improve. But if anything, I know my father will be happy if I learn to speak slower…

I'm slowly but surely gaining my bearings in Prague, culturally and directionally. This week I added my first junior high school experience in the Czech Republic to my reporitore, and after this past weekend, I can also add my first live music experience. 

For my Punk and Dissent class, we went to the concert of the Plastic People of the Universe that was commemorating the birthday of the late lead vocalist. It was amazing. Amazing. PPU was the leading force of the Czech underground during the communist regime and although they are now in their upper 60s and 70s they still know how to "rock." It was pretty surreal when my professor kept on pointing out famous signatories of the human rights initiative Charter 77 that were milling around the crowd. 

A memorable cultural experience- watching the forefathers of the Czech underground perform

Taking advantage of the beautiful weather this weekend, I also worked on improving my directional bearings, wandering around neighborhoods without a map until I stumbled upon something of interest. I found two beautiful parks in my neighborhood, one with a beer garden ranked best in the city and the other with a vineyard and wine tasting- I can't wait for Spring! Unfortunately, I felt a little out of place. Without the "it" accessories of a dog or a baby in a stroller, I stood out like a sore thumb. No worries mother, I don't plan on acquiring either of these things before I return home....

Look! Are those rollerblades I see in the bottom square? YES!

A common scene in any Prague park: Women gossiping while their dogs frolic. More often than not the dogs out number the women 2:1.

Pretty tree-lined streets of Vinohrady neighborhood

Vineyards in the heart of Prague

It's been a great week experiencing different sides of Prague and with 50s weather in the forecast, I can't help but hope that Spring comes earlier in Central Europe than in Wisconsin- crossing my fingers! Midterms begin next week so it's time to hit the books...

Na Shledanou!

Maarja

incomprehensible.

As I round off my first month of classes here in Praha, I’m beginning to see how truly subjective and ever-changing history is. I suppose I should have expected to learn about an absolute different angle to World War 2, but I was unprepared for such a stark, and really rather gruesome and detailed, contrast. Somehow learning about the war from the view of a country that was occupied not only by the German Nazis but also by the Soviets, has made the war so much more "real."

I think some of these feelings have to do with my program’s recent field trip to the town of Lidice. Unaware of the incident before arriving in Prague, I wasn’t quite prepared for the emotional experience of laying my eyes on the now completely open land and rolling hills that once had a bustling town of 500 inhabitants 60 years ago. The only trace that there once existed a town in the open field are the crumbling stone walls of the barn that was used as a backdrop for the shooting of the 172 men in Lidice. 

"Lidice"

The only remnants of a town: The barn which acted as the backdrop for the firing squad.

But let me give you some background. Reinhard Heydrich was Hitler’s second-hand man. And suffice it to say, he did not take it lightly when two Czech paratroopers assassinated Heydrich in late spring of 1942 while on his way to work in an open car. Hitler ordered his forces to “wade through blood” in order to find the assassins. Having acquired a list of safe houses that were used by the paratroopers during their mission which listed Lidice as the location of two of the homes, the Nazi’s decided to “make an example” out of Lidice.

Hitler's orders.

On June 10, 1942, all men over the age of 15 were executed via firing squad 10 at a time. Women and children were separated, the women being sent to the concentration camp, Ravensbruck, and the 80 of the 90 or so children in Lidice who were not selected for “Germanization” were sent to Chelmo, where they were put in gas chambers three days later. The town was then ransacked and burned to the ground. 

Pictures of the 172 men shot

Memorial to all of the children that were gassed at Chelmo.

Lidice was erased from the map. Even the men who had been away for the day working in a neighboring town were tracked down and shot. And two boys who had been transported with the rest of the children to Chelmo were shot after the Nazis discovered through police records that they had turned 15 two days prior. 

The two "men" who were shot after the Nazis learned they had recently turned 15.

This is not the WWII history I learned about. Sure, I have read and been taught plenty of the cruelties of the Nazi regime and concentration camps, but I have never witnessed it, let alone heard the story from a survivor. Our program set up a meeting with Jaroslava Skleničková, one of the last living survivors of Lidice. She was 16 at the time of the massacre and was sent to Ravensbruck with the rest of the women where she spent three years making uniforms. Since Jaroslava only speaks Czech, the girls on the program took turns reading her memoirs out loud. Reading her story recounting the massacre and three years at the work camp was an experience I will unlikely soon forget.

Once a town, now an open field

And what makes it so absolutely incomprehensible is that Lidice was by no means an isolated incident. Mass killings and the obliteration of entire towns occurred all over Central Europe during WWII. Some of my classmates recently gave a presentation on the book “The Neighbors” by Jan Gross which is a historical account of the massacre in Jedwabne, Poland where an estimated 1,600 Jewish Poles were brutally murdered (some were stoned to death while most of the others were herded into a burning barn) in eight hours not by the German occupiers, but by their fellow Poles and neighbors. Although the massacre happened in 1941, the book wasn’t published until 2001. Before then, it was essentially unheard of. How could this, along with all of the other fatal pogroms throughout Poland, be so easily swept under the rug?

WWII seems like a totally different war to me now. I will never understand the hate and the evil that existed and I am thankful for that- I do not ever want to know that hate.

This week has been emotional, informative, but most of all, a little confusing. I’ve learned about WWII since I was in second grade, but how have I never understood its true hideousness? Unfortunately (or maybe fortunately), I think this new understanding of WWII will continue to reveal its true ugliness as I learn more and more about Central European history. In a few weeks my program takes us on an organized spring break to Poland and Austria, one of our stops including Auschwitz. I better start emotionally preparing now.

On a much lighter note, this weekend I will once again have the chance to explore the beautiful city of Prague. With nice weather in the forecast, I hope to find some parks and maybe even check out the Mardi Gras celebration in one of the outer Prague neighborhoods. My mom and sister will be visiting in two weeks so I better prepare!

Na Shledanou,

Maarja